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تاريخ التسجيل: Jun 2019
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افتراضي The Best of Paris Fashion Week, in Pictures

The spring 2020 shows are underway in Paris — and T’s photographers are there to capture it all. We’ll be updating this post daily with our favorite images and notes on the collections. And don’t forget to check out our recaps from New York, London and Milan.
[Sign up here for the T List newsletter, a weekly roundup of what T Magazine editors are noticing and coveting now.]
Saturday, Sept. 28

This season, Nadأ¨ge Vanhee-Cybulski took inspiration from the pocketed aprons worn by the craftspeople at the Hermأ¨s headquarters in Pantin, a suburb just outside of Paris. Accordingly, the beautifully made leather and suede coats throughout the collection had a utilitarian feel that was quietly amplified by a distinctly classic color palette of khaki, brown, beige, white and oxblood. The clothes — which ranged from neat outerwear to pared-back tailoring — were also loaded with discretely luxurious details borrowed from the house’s equestrian heritage. Equally elegant and practical were the simple leather sandals that grounded each look.

The Comme des Garأ§ons show was a theatrical procession that explored Rei Kawakubo’s ongoing project with the Austrian composer Olga Neuwirth. In December, Neuwirth’s opera “Orlando,â€‌ based on the 1928 novel by Virginia Woolf, will open at the Vienna State Opera; it is the first opera by a female composer commissioned by the institution and Kawakubo will design the costumes. This collection, which referenced four time periods — the Elizabethan era, the 18th and 19th centuries, the modern age and the future — was the second act in Kawakubos’ trilogy of “Orlandoâ€‌-inspired collections: the first was her men’s wear show in June and the third will be her creations for the opera itself.

Junya Watanabe insisted that there was no theme for his collection, but rather a focus on creating “strong garments by maximizing techniques to their fullest.â€‌ As a maestro pattern-cutter, Watanabe’s skill lies in the complex construction of his clothes. This season, his collection riffed on a single item, the trench coat, which was reimagined in myriad ways — as dresses, full-length skirts and sculptural jackets. To contrast with the quintessential beige of the trench, Watanabe mixed in neon-hued leggings and sportswear, some of which was a collaboration with artists Bicicleta Sem Freio and Demsky J.

Friday, Sept. 27

This season, Hedi Slimane continued his exploration of Celine’s heritage as an outfitter for the French bourgeoisie. Colored by references to the ’60s and ’70s — both decades are lodestones for the designer — the collection was heavy on boot-cut denim, pussy-bow blouses, tweeds and suedes in classically tasteful, neutral hues. Models resembled students of the era, but with a put-together polish. By contrast, the set was a distinctly futuristic structure, also designed by Slimane himself.

Balmain’s show began with a parade of geometric, monochromatic evening wear with the kind of skin-flashing, form-fitting constructions that creative director Olivier Rousteing has made his name with. But what followed next was less expected: a suite of colorful denim. The 34-year-old designer explained that the collection was devoted to the pop stars of his childhood, such as Britney Spears, Christina Aguilera and Destiny’s Child.

The ’60s and ’70s have reigned on the runways this week but for his latest Loewe collection, Jonathan Anderson took a path less traveled — all the way back to the 16th and 17th centuries. The clothes represented the designer’s continuing fascination with handcraft. Back then, he explained, “craft was in the tiniest thing . . . you had to rely on precision.â€‌ Accordingly, his collection was full of intricate laces that gave a lightness to voluminous historical silhouettes.

Thursday, Sept. 26

Despite the absence of Virgil Abloh — the Chicago-born designer is taking a sabbatical from fashion — his Off-White show went ahead as normal (this season at the Centre Pompidou), and, as usual, there were crowds of fans outside hoping to catch a glimpse. The model Adut Akech opened the show in a neat button-down dress, while a recording of the voice of Dr. Mae Jemison, the first black woman to travel into space, played in the background. Elsewhere, there were black leather pants and pared-back shirts with cutout holes — a nod to the Cheesehead hats and helmets traditionally worn by fans at sports events in Wisconsin, America’s so-called Dairyland and the home of Abloh’s alma mater.

Halfway through Rick Owens’s show, which took place in the courtyard of the Palais de Tokyo, a procession of figures draped in long black garments emerged and began to create a landscape of bubbles from the central fountain. “Stoic Bauhaus Aztec priestesses in an Art Deco Valhalla filled with bubbles animated by â€کFantasia’-era Disney,â€‌ is how the designer described it. Owens said his show was an exploration of his maternal Mexican Mixtec heritage. There were headpieces inspired by Fritz Lang’s classic 1927 sci-fi film “Metropolis,â€‌ sequins that referenced the traditional Mexican embroidered China Poblana skirts that his mother would wear growing up in Puebla and geometric patterns that drew on the work of the Modernist artists Josef and Anni Albers, who explored Mexican archaeological sites after leaving their native Germany in the 1930s. Though Owens is known for his dark brutalism, a sense of opulence and glamour could be felt in the duchess satin bombers, vivid Luis Barragأ،n-inspired colors and the grand pleated-cotton gowns with dramatic Watteau backs.

Wednesday, Sept. 25

Dries Van Noten’s latest collection was a surprise collaboration with the French couturier and costumer Christian Lacroix — a secret ultimately revealed at the show’s end. “We wanted to keep it very intimate and focused,â€‌ said Lacroix, adding that some of his close personal friends weren’t even aware of the partnership. There were telltale signs of Lacroix’s trademark exuberance throughout the collection, though: polka dot and animal prints (tiger and zebra), electric floral jacquards, satin ball gowns and embellished tops, all grounded by Van Noten’s own sensibility for modern dressing. Basic tank tops gave voluminous skirts — some worn over jeans — a more everyday wearability, for example. “It was important to me that this wasn’t a homage. I wanted it to be living in today,â€‌ Van Noten said.

Maison Margiela’s show, which included both men’s and women’s wear, riffed on the idea of uniforms — British school blazers, nurses’ smocks, military capes, sailor suits — imbuing familiar sartorial tropes with a punkish verve. Although the house operates as a collective, the finger prints of its artistic director, John Galliano, could be felt in each of the looks, most notably in the couture volumes and mismatched styling. Coats were a major theme, too. Many of them came with laser-cut polka dots that nod to Margiela’s dأ©cortiquأ© technique, the idea of revealing inner layers by dissecting and deconstructing garments.

Tuesday, Sept. 24

Presented against the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower, Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent collection was a homage to the brand’s legacy. He drew on Yves Saint Laurent’s classic Le Smoking tuxedo suit — though updated with abbreviated short-shorts — as well as his Russian collection from 1976 and the original logo of the house, created by the graphic designer A.M. Cassandre in 1961. While honoring these touchstones, Vaccarello also updated them with frayed denim and slinky cocktail dresses with sculptural busts. Naomi Campbell closed the show in a black sequined tuxedo — a pertinent reminder of Saint Laurent’s heritage.

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s latest Dior collection was an ode to Monsieur Dior’s sister, Catherine, who became a celebrated gardener and botanist after World War II. The set was a forest of 164 trees — made in collaboration with the environmentally minded Paris-based design collective Coloco — which will later be replanted in and around Paris. The idea was to underscore the importance of nature in light of the climate crisis, and Chiuri celebrated botanicals and trees throughout her collection, loading tulle gowns with horticultural embellishments and taking cues from outdoorsy staples such as tweed jackets and sun hats. Even the shoes were resolutely earthy: Hiking boots, monogrammed espadrilles and flat pumps grounded the concept.

As one of Paris’s few young designers, Marine Serre is known for staging shows that are a stark contrast to the spectacles of heavyweight brands. This season, her collection was titled Marأ©e Noire — which translates to “oil slickâ€‌ in English — and the catwalk was coated to give the effect of spilled oil. (Serre works with upcycled fabrics and has been a vocal advocate for sustainability.) If the show’s dark first act could be interpreted as a vision of a post-apocalyptic world — techy black fabrics, severe silhouettes, buckled-in accessories — then the second had a lighter optimism: spliced florals, repurposed lace, macramأ© handbags and bleached denim.

Reporting by Osman Ahmed and Laura Neilson.
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